Bearing Guide

Here you can find all the information about bearings and attributes.


What do i need?

-Cleaning kit, something like Oust speed clean bearing cleaner set (Comes with cleaning solvent!), BRONSON SPEED CO. BEARING CLEANING UNIT or the Bones Bearing Cleaner. If you don't have have that a small container where you can put 8 bearings in will do.

-Cleaning solvent (Not water-based) think of Mineral spirits or Acetone.

-Lubrication (Bones Speed CreamBronson High Speed Ceramic Oil or Skanunu 100% Lube)

-Paper towels or old rag

-Something like a razor blade or a needle can also be fine

-Gloves (It could be handy to have some latex gloves because of the chemicals)

1.How to get the bearings out of the wheel?
You start the process with removing the bearings from the wheels. The best way to do that is using your axle to crank out the bearing, soulja boy syle!. Put the wheel half on the axle, so only one bearing is on the axle. Then start wiggling the wheel back and forth, so the bearing comes out slowly

2.Removing the bearing shield
After getting the bearings out, you have to remove the shields. Look if it's a pressed in metal shield or a removable one.  With a pressed in metal shield, you can skip this step and go to the next one. 

When you do have a removable shield, the best tool to use is something like a razor blade or a needle can also be fine. Try to get under the shield from the inner race side and with a little leverage it should pop out. Be care full, try not to damage the shields. When they are out, you can clean these with a paper towel and put them aside.

3.Cleaing time!
If you have a cleaning kit, you have something like a rod to put the bearing on. Make sure you put the exposed sides up. There should be some sort of spacer in between. If you don't have a kit then you can get a small container. In both scenarios, put a little layer of cleaning solvent (not water-based, something like Mineral spirits or Acetone). With the kit you can start shaking and with the container stir it up Bob Marley style.

4.Post cleaning
Dry them quickly and lay your bearings down on a paper towel. Then tap them one by one face down on a paper towel  to get the excess solvent out. You can also dry it with a hair dryer. But make sure they are dry!

5.Lubricate your bearings
We recommend using Bones speed cream, Skanunu 100% Lube or Bronson Speed oil. When you got your lube, put 2 drops in across from each other and then spin it, so it spread evenly. That's it!

Never use wd-40! It will dry out your bearings and vulnerable to rust

Your bearings are all clean! Pop them back in and go as the wind! Your bearings would appreciate getting clean once every two to three months, so they can last way longer and give you the speed you deserve.

If you are a beginner, and you want to build up your speed gradually you can take bearings like BullsEye, MiniLogo, Gravity. If you want less friction (more speed) you can take the Bones, Oust, SKF longboard bearings, Pleasure Tools or the Bears. If you want the fastest and smoothest rolling bearings, you should go for ceramic bearings. (only choose ceramic if you're not planning to do any high impact like big gaps, stairs, tricks in general or power slides)

The answer is no! ABEC stands for Annular Bearings Engineers Committee. The rating is based on using the bearing in an engine or power tool. A skateboard wheel will never spin so fast that the rating is irrelevant for skateboarding. 

What makes a bearing faster and efficient is the materials used and how precisely the bearing is manufactured.  The amount of balls in the bearing is for different reasons. The more balls you have, the stronger it is. More balls mean also more friction, and that means you probably go slower. So in this case, less is more (speed).  

Steel bearings are the most common bearing in the skateboarding industry. Because of how strong the steel balls are, it's perfect for the high impact sport what skateboarding is. (the quality of the steel can make a lot of different in rolling speed and durability.) Here are some pros and cons of a steel bearing:


-They can take a lot of impact

-They are way more affordable. (you can get a good set for 20 to 30 euros)


-Needs more maintenance, as in cleaning it.

-Exposed to water will make it rust.

We would recommend steel bearings for all kinds of high impact skateboarding. Think of doing a lot of power slides, big gaps and tricks in general.

Ceramic Bearings Compared to even the finest steel bearing balls, ceramic balls have several remarkable advantages that justify their higher cost. They’re significantly lighter and lower in friction, so they accelerate faster and roll further at a higher speed, even with little or no lubricant. They’re so hard and strong that they crush dirt, debris, and even rust, which keeps the steel raceways clean and polished. Furthermore, they dissipate heat better, so bearings (and wheels) run cooler. They’re also rustproof, so they last longer even when ridden in wet conditions. Here are some pro's and cons of a ceramic bearing:


-less friction what can make it faster

-Self cleaning 

-Last way longer (Ceramic balls can't rust)


-They are more expensive, ranging between 40 and 100 + euro's

-They can break because of too much pressure from high impact. Think of big gaps and stairs, but also doing a lot of power slide.

We would recommend ceramic bearings for cruising and long distance pushing. Because it's not too much impact on the bearing and will last you very long.

The speed rings are installed between the nut and bearing and the bearing and hanger, giving them more tolerance, also, the spacers allow you to tighten your wheels fully (so they don't jiggle). They will help keep your bearings from being damaged by horizontal forces (sliding, landing perpendicular). You have to tighten them properly, otherwise they do nothing. Speed rings even be stacked on top of each other to widen your hanger width. (if there is still space for the axle nuts).  Modern bearings van come with built-in ringsInformation about speedrings and spacers

Parts of a bearing

The bearing exist out of multiply parts :
The Inner Race is the smaller of the two bearing rings. It has a groove on its outer diameter to form a raceway for the balls.
The Outer Rice is the larger of the two bearing rings. On the outer ring, there is a groove on its inside diameter to form a pathway for the balls. It also has the same high-precision finish as the inner ring.
The balls separate the inner ring and outer ring and permit the bearing to rotate with minimal friction. The dimension of the rolling elements is made slightly smaller than the track on the inner and outer rings. Rolling element are very important for different results. Surface finish, size variations and material are important attributes. These attributes can make a lot of different for how good a bearing is. The amount of balls can also variant. Fewer balls are less friction, what can make it faster. But fewer balls also means that it's less strong and might fall apart with too much pressure on it.
The retainer in bearings is to separate the rolling elements, maintain a constant spacing between the inner and outer rings, accurately guide the rolling elements in the path during rotation, and to prevent the rolling elements from falling out.
The shield is pressed into a very small groove on the inside edge diameter of the outer ring. A small space or gap remains open between the outside diameter of the inner ring and shield. Because the shield does not contact the inner ring of the bearing, there is no added friction between the shield and bearing. This results in a bearing that has very low torque. The purpose of shields is to keep larger particles of contamination from entering the bearing.

A spacer is a metal cylinder placed between the bearings. This allows you to tighten the axle nut a bit harder without the risk of pushing in the inner bearing ring inwards which takes away slop on your bearings and wheels.

Information about speedrings and spacers